The sweet, pungent scent of South Africans.

The last two weeks cycling have been memorable for so many reasons!

We left Dar Es Salaam, totally enchanted by the fact that we had made our first donation to Habitat For Humanity. We also departed with so many exciting prospects to look forward to. We were due to cycle through a national park, baobab forests, climb what we thought would be our last mountains, and then we would hit Malawi. Malawi was a country which had us frothing at the mouth as far back as Egypt. Cycling along Lake Malawi was too exciting for words. The idea of being in Southern Africa was even more reason to be excited, it represented a massive psychological and emotional fillip.

Africa; true to form, did not disappoint.

We reluctantly said our goodbyes to the friends we had made at Southern Sun in Dar Es Salaam. If there was any sadness however, it was tempered the following day when, in the afternoon session, we entered Mikumi National Park. The national road passes straight through the park. We were set to enjoy the best possible seats on a very special game drive. Both Davey and I were well aware of how privileged we were to be living this experience.

We would only feel more grateful when we came across our first herd of elephants, just 50 metres away! I was so excited,I stopped to get my camera out but forgot to unclip from my pedal. As I slowed to a stop, I toppled over with very little poise as the elephant looked on, totally unimpressed.

With the beard,I would fit right in.

I managed to stop more gracefully from then on as we delighted in seeing countless elephant, baboon, giraffe, zebra,feeding vultures and more. It was a special day, one which will not be forgotten.

Please be something tasty today

The following day’s highlights included cycling through fields and fields of baobab trees. Then, as the day came to a close, we found what was possibly our best camp site yet. That night,as we cooked dinner next to the river, admiring the southern hemisphere night sky, we chatted about the eventful 2 days we had just enjoyed.

The following day was just as exciting as we prepared for (what we thought was) our last significant climb. We were also due to take a rest day in the town of Iringa. After a tough day’s cycling, we arrived at a junction which directed us to turn right in order to get to Iringa, just 2 km away.As we turned on to this exit, we stared up in disbelief at a 2km climb slapping us into an exhausted stupor. We felt unprepared, as we did not have oxygen masks on hand for our summit attempt!

A rest day was spent at a coffee shop run by a wonderful English couple, Andy and Susie. They deserve a write up dedicated purely to the good work they are doing at Neema Craft Centre! Briefly, they run the cafe, which employs only deaf people in the cafe section! The workshop, where all the beautiful crafts are made, is also on site and employs only disabled people. Iringa has the highest percentage of people with physical disabilities in Tanzania. Neema is doing such wonderful work to empower these people by providing them with skills and allowing them to blossom and prove not only to their communities, but most importantly to themselves, that they are capable, talented human beings who have the ability to lead successful, fulfilled lives!

Andy from Neema Craft Centre

Africa continues to introduce us to the most spectacularly beautiful people.

From Iringa, it was another 3 days to Mbeya, the last town before the Malawi border. In the 6 cycling days it took us to get there, we covered some serious ground and encountered some gruelling conditions in terms of climbs and wind. From Iringa onwards however, our thoughts definitely turned to focus on Malawi and all it represented.

This presents a massive challenge psychologically. Davey and I have spent much time discussing our respective futures and how we plan to approach the next phases of our lives. Given all the time we have had for introspection, we have formulated detailed, intricate plans based on our goals and desires for the future. With each kilometre cycled, these dreams and goals appear a little larger on the horizon and seem that much more real. The reality is however, that we may as well be in Egypt, as we still have a long way to go(about 2500km) and a lot of hard work lies ahead. At the same time we must remember that a lot of unforgettable memories await over the next month.

Crow,crow,crow!

Focus boys,FOCUS!!

The day we crossed the border into Malawi,we did 149km on a beautiful day’s cycling.We had a serious climb in the morning, which was probably the coldest weather we have experienced on the bikes. Personally this climb was tough; not so much the physical toll it took but rather the fact that here was another mountain, slowing our progress!The enticing prospect of home makes me impatient and this mountain,which kept us in the saddles for a long time, frustrated me. I almost began to take the mountains and wind(we have been experiencing for some time) personally, as if they were deliberately trying to keep me from getting back to South Africa. Obviously not the case,but perspective is difficult to maintain at such times.

We then cycled through lush, green tea fields before Lake Malawi came into view in the distance. A few rolling hills later, we enjoyed a long downhill to the border.We had done over a 100km before 2 in the afternoon, without lunch. After crossing into Malawi, we stopped for some lunch before heading to the town of Karonga. A border crossing always lifts the spirits, and we cycled along, waving to locals and greeting each and every person with big, excited grins on our faces.

The following day we cycled to the beautiful Chitimba Beach Camp, where we took a day off to enjoy what would prove to be our only day at the lake. After our rest day, we celebrated Davey’s birthday with a big, beautiful climb that provided us with elevated views of the lake. That evening, after a long day’s cycling, we camped just short of Mzuzu. We snuck off the side of the road as the sun disappeared and set up camp for the night! As we cooked our dinner on our little fire, we reflected on our day; it had been a tough, but good day.

The following day was a day which had both Davey and I in tears. We were hoping for some good cycling conditions as we had big mileage to cover before we could enjoy a rest in Lilongwe! We were however met by a howling head wind and countless steep climbs! This meant a tough slog uphill without the reward of being able to give the legs a break on the downhill.The strength of the wind had us cycling downhill!!

The frustration had us both in tears at different stages during the day.

As the sun began to set, we were on the lookout for the town of Mzimba. This town however, was proving elusive! Drinking water was also proving to be elusive, as it had been all day. With no supplies for camping, we cycled on into the night, with a small flashlight the only means of illuminating the road ahead. We arrived at a camp site at about 7:30 that night, after almost 12 hours on the bike. An exhausting day, to say the least.

We were now in the middle of a stretch of road which had us out on the bikes from almost sunrise to sunset for a few days in succession. The problem was that the conditions were not helping us achieve the mileage we would normally achieve on such long days. We did however, manage to get through about 130km each day until we arrived in Lilongwe. That Saturday, we stayed with an old varsity friend of mine, Skeg. It was great to see him. We also enjoyed the company of his mates as he was having a house warming party that night.

The next day, we were due to go and stay with some of Davey’s family. Jim Henderson came to fetch us and took us to his home! What a lovely house, and what a lovely host! It was such a treat to enjoy a Sunday braai on the patio, shoot the breeze and relax on the couch. We spent 3 fantastic nights there with Jim, Neil and Ashley. On the Tuesday Jim took us flying in his private airplane to Blantyre and back. Davey and I got to take the reins for some time!What a treat, yet again! That evening we went out for a delicious dinner for Neil’s birthday. The perfect end to a great day.

Jim and family were extremely generous and could not have been more welcoming while we were there.

We are again humbled by the people of Africa.

As I type this, it is approaching 12:30 am…It is late and in just a few hours we head for the Mozambique border.Mozambique is another major milestone and brings us within smelling distance of you beautifully pungent South Africans.

It is time to sleep, but it is important that you know how much we miss our friends and families. This trip is proving to be a beautiful adventure and we are confident it will continue to provide us with all kinds of beauty. Nothing however, could be more beautiful than seeing all our beautiful friends and families all over the world. So, while we are starting to feel the effects of having cycled in excess of 6000km, we remain focused on the task at hand, determined to soak up as much as Africa has to offer and get some houses built. Our hearts will also be beating that much harder as we approach the day we again get to see you an you and you and you…

Last picture in Tanzania, a smiling kid!Perfect!

Much love.

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A special moment for Through Africa For Africa…

Yesterday this little project had a good day…

We postponed our departure from Dar by a day in the hope that we would get hold of Habitat Tanzania. With a date in mind as to when we would like to back in SA, it was difficult to postpone the cycling as it would mean that we would be behind schedule.

Our decision was indeed justified however, when we managed to make contact with Scott, the National Director. We hurriedly made our way out to their office to learn a little more about what they are doing for the people of Tanzania. It was an enlightening afternoon spent learning how Habitat Tanzania has adapted to the needs of the the people it serves.

There is very little time available before we leave Dar Es Salaam, so I will be brief…

A roof,doors and windows...

After listening to inspiring stories about all the people HFH Tanzania has helped, we went to have some lunch with Scott next door. After the usual ugali (mielie pap) and vegetables, we stopped in at the ATM, drew some money and made our very first contribution to a home for a family in need!

The handover!!

It was so exciting drawing that money, knowing the potential those notes possessed to make a a real difference to a family who could really do with a helping hand. In the end, we chose a family of 6.

David Damas Kilijongo is 43 years old. He is married to Roida Alfonce. They have four children,Rose (16 years old), Boniface (14 years old), Happy (11 years old) and Gabriel (9 years old). They live in a house which measures about 24 square meters and parts of the house are unroofed and without windows. This presents a number of problems. The teenaged children are sharing a room with both parents and their younger siblings. Living conditions are cramped and the fact that doors, windows and roofs are missing means that they are vulnerable to a number of dangers(malaria, robbery being just two).

With our donation,the family is now able to complete the house. Their teenage children will also get a room where they can enjoy the privacy they need at this sensitive time in their lives.

It was so rewarding handing over that money, knowing that it is going to do good things for good people!

Today, as we reluctantly say goodbye to the wonderful people at The Southern Sun, we can leave with a smile on our faces and joy in our hearts. Through Africa For Africa is achieving its goals-making a positive real impact on the lives of others!!

We (and when I say ‘we’ I refer to myself, Davey and all of you who have supported us and continued to support us) have begun to make a difference. We, are proving that Africa is anything but the dark continent. We are humanity, giving of ourselves for the sake of humanity!

With Scott Metzel-the National Director of HFH Tanzania

Today is Friday, today is a great day. Celebrate Friday and your weekend, knowing that your love, enthusiasm and empathy are all working to improve the lives of David, Roida, Rose, Boniface, Happy and Gabriel. Know that YOU are making a difference and empowering a family to achieve goals they may only ever have dreamed of…

In the words of the Kings Of Leon song attached to that slideshow you may have watched,  ”Crow like the rooster.”

Happy days

Much love…

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“If those who owe us nothing gave us nothing, how poor we would be”.

Addis Ababa to the Ethiopia/Kenya border will always hold powerful memories for us; for so many reasons. None more so than for all the outstanding people we met!

We spent almost a month negotiating the challenges Ethiopia threw at us. It was a month which tested us in so many ways, and there were many times when the kindness of those we met, did so much to make a difference in our all too often insulated world of bicycle, food, bed, bicycle, food, bed.

On what proved to be one of our toughest days on the road, it was a group of fun-loving Ethiopian guys who soon had us forget about all that had transpired on the road to this small town. Feeling rather battle-weary and exhausted, we were only too happy when these guys invited us to join them as they celebrated Easter Monday!Not only were we treated to drinks and food, but we were also royally entertained by these characters! Once the festivities were done, they even walked around town with us, helping us find a hotel.

Great guys

As the days passed, so we continued making steady progress in the direction of Kenya,we reached the sleepy town of Yabello! We planned to take a day off here. It proved to be a astute decision!We made some great friends who treated us to dinner, gave us easter eggs, fancy cheese and biscuits and sachets of Jungle Oats. After a month of tormented stomachs, treats such as Jungle Oats are treasured gifts. Davey and I have been known to be hungry at the end of a day’s cycling. I’m not sure Tony, Gina and co. knew what they were in for when the menus were placed in front of us! It was such a treat to be able to chat and learn more about their lives in Addis!

And then we met our South African birder friends! A group of about 20 South Africans had traveled to Ethiopia for some quality bird-watching. What a great bunch of people.They were so enthusiastic about our trip,the ladies were awfully concerned for our well-being and we were both given hugs on behalf of our moms. On our day off, the men were keen to hear all about the bikes and the adventures along the journey so far! We were also given a fantastic antibiotic which did wonders for the stomach. Finally farting with confidence!!!

When we departed the next morning(with a new SA flag, some delicious snacks and our priceless antibiotics), we were given a royal send off as they lined the road and blasted their hooters as we cycled away! What a way to start the day.

Bird watchers and happy cyclists.Proudly South African.

The next day we crossed the border into Kenya! It was with great joy and excitement that we began a new adventure. Then came the reality.The political situation in northern Kenya meant that we would take public transport to Nairobi! Negotiating a price and vehicle took the best part of 2 days.Once we had inhaled and squeezed into the long wheel base Toyota with the other 15 passengers,we prepared for the first part of the journey!The next 10 hours saw us cover just 400km in what was quite possibly the worst travel experience of our lives.

This odyssey(which would take us another day)was made so much better by 2 Kenyan guys traveling with us. When we stopped in the middle of nowhere for lunch, Moses introduced us to some delicious Kenyan food and treated us too.We spent the rest of the bumpy ride getting to know Moses and Moses.That night,they helped us find a hotel and had dinner with us.In the morning, as we began the final leg of our  journey,Moses and Moses found us a shuttle bus with roof racks so that we did not have to take the bus. They traveled with us and communicated with our hosts in Nairobi as to where we could meet. Then, upon arrival in Nairobi, they bought us lunch and waited with us while we waited for our hosts. One of our 2 new friends still had another day of travel before he got home to his wife and daughter. Absolutely smashing humans!!

Davey,Moses,Moses,Ricki.

And then we met our hosts. An entire blog entry could be written on them. Gary, Michele and Stuart Barlow are truly generous, giving people. The title of this blog entry could not be more fitting than for this wonderful family. We have been fed like kings, driven all over town and made to feel like their home is ours. And to think that we met them for the first time on Saturday!

Michele looking on at the back,Chicky playing with my hair and Stuart pointing out a spot the barber missed!

Davey and Ricki with Gary!

I have mentioned before that nothing is more touching than humanity giving of itself for humanity’s sake! These are just a few examples of spectacular humans giving of themselves for other humans.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

Much love…

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A country traveling in its own orbit.

I am sitting in the Taitu Hotel in Addis Ababa.As I type away on my computer,the time is 9 am.At least for you and I it is 9am.In Ethiopia however,the time is 3 am-the clock goes through a 12 hour cycle twice a day here.
As I continue to type,I remind myself that we currently find ourselves in the year 2011.At least for you and I it is 2011.In Ethiopia however,it is 2003.
Us,from other African countries,owe some of our history to previous colonial powers.Ethiopia,as you will be told by most Ethiopians,is the only country never to be colonised.

Yes,things are different here!And there’s no ignoring it.

The moment we crossed into Ethiopia from Sudan,we were met by sights we had not seen for many weeks.Namely objects containing colours other than brown or white,women so scantily clad that we could see their chins, and some lovely additions to our daily eating routines.

Spaghetti and fresh avo juice!!


Sudan was a beautiful experience we will never forget,but Ethiopia offered us so many new choices and sights.

Our first few days were spent ploughing down mounds of spaghetti like the Italian weightlifting team!We also drank as much of our new alternative to water-fresh avocado juice-as we could possibly find!

Another fact playing on our minds was that we were due for some big mountains.The first few days threw up rolling hills but not much to cry about,just yet.

And then…there was a whole lot to cry about!!

Our first major climb will remain with us for many years.We ate breakfast in a small town at the foot of a mountain! Fuelled by the very stuff that paved the way for the Roman Empire,we attacked the mountains like true Roman warriors, as if Brutus stood behind Caesar at the summit,ready to destroy our beloved emperor.

4 hours later,we were sure Brutus had completed his dastardly deed.We had cycled 9km!It really did feel like our empire was crumbling down around us.
Thankfully,once we did summit,the view from the top blew any feelings of remorse for our fallen leader away!We were on our way to establishing a new empire,run by smelly boys with skinny upper bodies and bulging thighs!

While we did enjoy the odd descent,we were heading in an upward direction and found ourselves spending long hours in the saddle as our legs pedalled furiously for very little gain.Our lives were made just a tad more difficult by the kids we met in every town.
Now kids are so easy to love,we all know that.It goes without saying however,that most kids are not known for hurling rocks,nails and old food at people passing by on bicycles.
As previously mentioned,things are different here.

At least the prospect of being hit by any number of sharp objects had us temporarily forgetting about the ‘deep burn’ in our thighs.
The projectiles however,were not scary enough to rid us of the evil causing mayhem with our stomachs.A number of you have seen the video of Davey on the side of the road.Any number of passers-by were not going to halt that purging ceremony!
We had the good sense not to film my episode.Suffice to say,that had a kid with a rock seen me squatting on the edge of the national road with a pair of boxers my only way of cleaning the mess,I doubt whether they would have had the stomach to keep their hands away from their noses as opposed to throwing anything at me.

It is only right to make light of the challenges we have faced in Ethiopia:
While there is much poverty and scarce food at times,it is a country filled with enthusiastic,welcoming people(adults) who are only to happy to engage with the smelly cyclists. We have met so many interesting individuals here.From the men who were proudly giving their salary to the government to help fund a dam project,to the numerous teachers who have enlightened us as to the finer details of Ethiopian culture.

While Ethiopia has many reasons to feel sorry for itself,the people do not allow themselves such indulgences.They are fiercely proud of their heritage and refreshingly optimistic about their future!And rightly so!It is a country with so much to offer!And most importantly,it is a country full of enthusiastic,proactive human beings.

In closing it must be mentioned that Davey and I felt truly blessed to finally meet with our major cause,Habitat For Humanity. The individuals working there were gracious and humble,despite the great work they are doing.Please read the entry below regarding our visit to their office.

Davey and I are also grateful to two of of our major sponsors, who provided us with the means to get here and meet with our friends at Habitat, as well as documenting our visit through pictures!Many thanks to both The Robert Group and the team at Sheffield Manor for their contribution.

We leave Addis Ababa in the morning.We have about 800km before we reach the Ethiopia/Kenya border.We are under the impression that we will now cycle gradually downhill.We are also hoping that there are less loose rocks and nails lying around close to the road.

More than anything however,we are hoping that our efforts on the bicycle contribute to the building of a home for a family in need…

Much love to you all.

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What would you do to make a difference?

Earlier today,Davey and I met with the Habitat For Humanity team in Ethiopia.Finally meeting with the major cause we are representing was a real honour and had me squeezing down a lump in my throat.

We sat down and learned of the housing situation in Ethiopia.It goes without saying that there are people all over the world without adequate housing.This is a well-known fact and it is truly tragic.
The difference today however,was sitting down with people working to alleviate the housing crisis in their country, and listening to their personal stories.
Here was a team of dedicated individuals,working tirelessly to improve the lives of their fellow citizens.When one hears these personal stories and the reality ‘on the ground’,it is a sobering experience.

Kebede Abebe,the National Director,Yoseph Gedamu and Dereje Gebremeskel sat with us to tell us more.

Habitat Ethiopia faces challenges which are unique to Ethiopia and it was enlightening to hear about all the positive work being done.
In order to receive a house from Habitat,the recipient must meet certain criteria.The one aspect which stands out here is that the recipient must be willing to participate in the building process as well as in a saving initiative(facilitated by Habitat) geared towards helping finance the house.

Beautiful faces


The recipient family must also live below a certain income level(Please make sure you are seated while you read what follows). In Ethiopia the maximum(family) income permitted in order to be granted a house is 900 Birr. 900 Birr equates to less than R450 or about $56!!Per month!!To think that a family can survive on so little is simply unbelievable.

Another entrenched principle in Habitat’s policy is that of community involvement.This really hit home with us as Through Africa For Africa has always been about getting our community involved in order to make a difference.

When beginning a project,Habitat involves all the beneficiaries in the building and saving process.The people help build their neighbours’ houses and the same is done in return. The saving initiative,while monitored by Habitat,is maintained by elected community leaders.

Habitat Ethiopia also provides other unique services.They facilitate the improvement of kitchens,build potable water facilities and community toilets.

Another element is that of Vulnerable Group Housing.This project refers mainly to providing housing for those affected by leprosy.Most of us reading this are truly blessed to not know the realities of leprosy,but one of the harshest realities is the stigma attached to leprosy.This stigma is misguided and much of this comes down to being ignorant of the truth.
Habitat is working tirelessly to integrate those affected by leprosy into society,through the Vulnerable Group Housing project.

Today was a real learning experience.Habitat is doing so much good work in Ethiopia and I could carry on typing for hours about all they are doing.Those of us however,who can empathise,are already able to understand the severity of the situation.Those of us who can empathise,are also able to identify when it is time to get involved.

In closing,it is our responsibility to give you the facts and show you how easy it is for us to contribute to making a tangible,lasting difference to a family in need.

Habitat For Humanity Ethiopia accomplishments as of November 2010:

*Built 1789 houses
*Distributed 3079 mosquito nets
*Improved 775 kitchens
*Built potable water facilities for 1092 families
*Built 57 communal toilets
*Organized 190 saving groups with savings in excess of 4 million Birr

The total number of families served by Habitat Ethiopia is 3713.

Mr Abebe indicated that the average family consisted of about 5 people.Habitat Ethiopia has thus contributed to improving the lives of as many as 18 000 people in need.

We asked Mr Abebe what it would cost to build a house for a family in Ethiopia.We were both left astounded by his answer…

Just 30 000 Birr is what it takes to build a house for a family of 5 that will protect and house a family for generations to come.That is less than R15 000.

What would give you more satisfaction?A R15 000 holiday or TV, or a home for a family in need?

Think about that carefully. R15 000 for a home,for a family,for life…

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A personal affirmation…

One of the overriding reasons for pursuing this adventure was for the purpose of inner examination.Both in South East Asia and Africa,I have had lots of time to think, and if anything it has given me clarity. Obviously with so much time for thought,one thinks about all manner of things,but if there is one thing which has remained in my thoughts literally every day,it is that of children.

I know that I have sung the praises of my kids for a long time now,and I know that I truly love them with all my heart.But one thing that I could not decide on,was whether teaching and education was what I wanted to do for the rest of my life.

Now that I have had all this time to ponder both my past and my future,I still do not know whether I will be a teacher forever.What I do know however,is that children and seeing them grow and embrace life with all their innocent gusto is what keeps my heart beating.

This kid had the best bicycle in town.

Children are the true ambassadors of humanity and if I achieve anything in my life;I hope my achievements come through the nurturing and uplifting of our beautiful children.

So,after having cycled about 5000km on this trip and the previous one,Have I answered all those lingering questions that keep us awake at night.Most definitely not.Even once this trip is complete I do not expect to have any more answers than I have now.

These two cool cats wouldn't let go of their eggs.

What I do know though,is that when I return to work in a few months and I have one of those sleepless nights,pondering life’s greater mysteries;I will toss and turn knowing that I have one less mystery to ponder.Then in the morning,I will wake up,bleary-eyed and tired,drink an iced coffee and head over to school with a happy heart,a children’s song playing in my head and a smile on my face.

Bring it on sleepless nights,my kids and I are going to kick your collective asses!!

Have a look at some of the videos below…innocent,beautiful kids!Listening to the kids laugh(videos 2 and 3) is so infectious…

Rugby skills in Egypt

Fun with kids at lunch time

Head,shoulders,knees and toes

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The sun shines a little brighter for the beautiful people of Sudan!


Leaving Egypt was exciting for many reasons(If you read the last blog you may understand one of the reasons for being so excited).None more so than the long anticipated ferry trip on Lake Nasser from Aswan to Wadi Halfa in Sudan.

Having read so much about this 17 hour journey,it was with much excitement that we boarded the boat on Monday the 14th of March,mid morning.We settled into the most comfortable spot we could find-under one of the life rafts-and waited for our departure later that day.

The events which proceeded to unravel over the next few hours are extremely difficult to fully describe in words.Never had we imagined we would see a boat so burdened like this poor relic was. Tv’s,washing machines,crockery,bicycles and much more were simply loaded on and stored on the deck at first,and then when there was no more space,they began to squeeze all the worldly goods into any corner or passage to be found.What had seemed like a spacious area to rest under the life raft,soon turned into a a tiny cubicle 3 boxes high in every direction.

The ferry, fully loaded and headed for Sudan

The journey was unforgettable for so many reasons and it is a privilege to have had the opportunity to witness such a mass of humanity and consumables all piled into the boat.

Arriving in Sudan was easy enough and soon we were in the small Sudanese town of Wadi Halfa. This was an unremarkable town for the most part,but hanging out with the other over-landers for a couple hours was good fun.

The next day was our first on the road in Sudan.Knowing we were cycling into the desert was exhilarating and our first day lived up to expectation.We had a strong wind behind us as we ventured deeper into the sandy scenery all around us.We were soon alone,watching the heat rise off the surface of the road which cut through the desert as far as the eye could see.Sitting under the one tree we found as we ate lunch,I cringed thinking about how people get lost in the desert.

Over the following days we adjusted to our surroundings by taking long lunch breaks in order to escape the midday heat!We had to watch our water supplies and so it was prudent to stay out if the sun at such times.

Camping in the desert was both calming and unforgettable.What an experience to stand in a desert illuminated by the full moon,not a sound to be heard other than the crackling of fire wood.To stand there and soak up the grandeur of it all was even more reason to feel blessed. The grandeur of the spider,illuminated by my headlamp which had me leaping over my tent in order to escape it’s deathly clutches.

Camping at a mosque.

The desert seems to bring out the best in those around you!Every once in a while we would stumble upon a small group of people living out in the desert.They would have 3 big pots of drinking water and when seeing the crazy boys on bicycles stop,they were only to happy to fill our bottles for us.We were treated to several cups of tea,given prime position out of the sun in villages,given oranges and tomatoes in an area where food is scarce and made to feel truly welcome to set up camp wherever we pleased.It cannot be an easy life in the desert,but one would think we were cycling through the land of milk and honey judging by the way we were welcomed.And this was all while being caked in a constant layer of dirt which would gradually thicken as the days without a shower would begin to add up.

Since Wadi Halfa,we had also been riding with another cyclist,Rob Macintyre( http://www.cyclingthelongwaydown.com/)who is making his way from Scotland to South Africa.He has been lots of fun,great conversation and a terrific companion.The plan is to cycle together until we arrive in Nairobi,where Rob will meet up with his family for a well deserved rest.

We soon slid into relatively slick routines and while the heat and scarce resources proved a challenge, we generally made good daily progress.If anything slowed us down,it was the miggies(from here on referred to as desert sluts) which were feeding on the date palms.There were so many of these tiny, flying devils they would literally form a cloud around one’s face.Once they caught a whiff of smelly cyclists,they forgot all about those sweet dates.They would fly into your ears,up your nose and into your mouth!No matter how fast we cycled,we could not escape those blighted desert sluts.

The day we headed for Khartoum was a great test of our resolve.We had made some great progress in the morning,but at about 11am,we began to feel the force of a monster sand storm doing its best to blast as much sand as possible into any cavity available!All our hard work was nullified as we were battered by sand and windThe feeling was not dissimilar to what a piece of bronze must feel like when receiving a rigorous Brasso polishing.In order to make up time,we cycled through midday as we figured the sand clouds would ease the sun’s burn.Despite all our best efforts,we only managed to roll into the city centre at about 8pm,after a taxing 160km.

Halfway through the sand storm.Still smiling.

This however,is one of the reasons we are here.

The desert offers one loads of time to think and the housing which serves to protect the Sudanese people from the harsh conditions they encounter every day of their lives leaves much to be desired.It serves as a strong reminder why an organisation such as Habitat For Humanity is so desperately needed.The key to empowering others is providing them with shelter and the security that comes from having a roof over one’s head.

It is difficult to imagine a greater satisfaction that knowing that our efforts in cycling the length of Africa may well result in helping Habitat continue the sterling job they are doing.This is the overriding reason for this adventure and we will make every effort to see our goal achieved.

We are fortunate people to be able to have warm,safe homes from where we can pursue our dreams and goals.Wouldn’t it be the most wonderful feeling knowing that we have all contributed to doing the same for a family less fortunate than ourselves?

Let’s get involved!!

Deeper into the desert we go.

Categories: Africa | 11 Comments

So I dodged a sickle murderer

It was exactly 2 weeks ago that Davey and I arrived in Egypt.To be honest,we now feel like 2 year ‘veterans’ of Egypt.

Our time in Cairo was spent,building bikes,eating and visiting Tahrir Square!We both felt honoured to be first hand witnesses at such a momentous time in Egypt’s history. This is indeed,not the first revolution in Egypt’s history,but it is nonetheless,a memorable time to be in Egypt.

We lapped up the energy and positivity emanating from the square and acquainted ourselves with the situation on the ground.

The warm way in which we were welcomed had us eager to get on the road to soak in all the welcome we could.

Our departure from Giza on the 2nd of March was a quietly auspicious occasion marked by cycling around the magnificent pyramids.Our celebratory meal was one we would eat literally every day over the next 10 days:Koshari. Koshari is a carbohydrate laden jetpack of spaghetti,rice and noodles thrown together with chickpeas,lentils,fried onion and tomato salsa.

At the pyramids.A joy to behold.

The warm fuzzy feeling we felt after all the welcomes was made only more fuzzier when we stopped for a snack and were welcomed into a small village for tea.A problem arose however,when my camera was stolen from my bag.When it became apparent that there was a thief,a mini uprising broke out around us as the villagers scampered to find the culprit.

When the village ‘security’ came in with automatic rifles slung across their backs,we…took note.What else could we do but hope that it was not us who were in the wrong for taking pictures(photography can be quite an issue in parts of the arab world).

The village where my camera was first stolen

Much to our relief,the camera was eventually returned to our possession.Not wanting to sit around long enough for a shot to be fired,we hurtled out of there like infidels on the run.

Davey and I rationalised that this was a once off thing and remained positive as we set out on day two.After loads of friendly stops and hand shakes and ‘what’s your names’ I certainly felt our positive approach was justified!So much so that when two guys on a motorbike asked me to stop for the 3rd time in about as many kilometers,I did so.

As I slowed down to stop,I forgot to unclip from my pedal and went crashing to the ground.When the two on the motorcycle just laughed,I immediately felt something was not right. They were very interested in my ipod and whether I had a camera.As they drew closer into my personal space,they tried to pull my ipod off me and did their best to get their hands on anything of value.I resisted and did my best to defend “Florence the Machine” (My bicycle) from these two who were using any method possible to get at my things.I now knew that I was in a tricky situation.

I tried to get back on Florence to leave but they would not let me.After what seemed like forever,another man going in the opposite direction stopped.I thought that this was now the end of my resistance as they would use the 3rd man to do as they pleased.Thankfully ,this was not the case.This kind man convinced them to let me go.I set off but soon they were back on me,trying to cut me off,speeding up wen I sped up etc.I slowed down to the point where I was practically going backwards.These 2 seemed to lose interest for now.

As I carried on down the road,fuming at the fact that there were people in the world who thought nothing of violating another member of the human race,so a royal blue van screamed past me,pulled over in front of me,almost clipping my tyre and slammed on brakes.Two police officers and the good samaritan from before bundled me into the van and sped back in the opposite direction.Now I was frantically trying to explain that Davey was ahead of me and that I could not go back the way I came.

They eventually understood and Davey was apprehended.

From that moment on,our every pedal was watched by the tourist police.There were times when we were alone,but this generally meant trouble.As we headed further south, we encountered hostility from locals who lived along the Nile!Davey and I were sworn at, had stones and metal wire thrown at us and on our penultimate cycling day,I watched as a teenager ran from a field,up to the road to meet me and swung at me with his sickle!A sickle!If I was one for using internet slang I would type a hundred WTF’s.

It may sound all doom and gloom,but this is not the case!

The escorts were,by and large,gracious almost to a fault!Can you imagine sitting in a hot,rickety old van for hours on end following two silly boys on bicycles?And still having the patience to stop every time their trigger happy fingers feel the urge to snap away.

It is always about the people and we have been lucky to meet people who we will remember long after the glint of the sickle slicing through the air has vanished from memory.

Susannah and David were great company in Cairo.Their socio-political knowledge was enlightening.They also introduced us to our two favourite meals.Koshari and falafel sandwiches.

We met our great friend,Haj in the small town of Esna.We stopped to eat lunch in town.Haj,who was at a shop nearby,gave us a table and chairs and made us wonderful Egyptian tea!We were only in his company for about half an hour but he is definitely a friend we will not forget.After the hostility we had been subject to,it was a real joy to meet such a kind soul!

Reluctantly saying goodbye to Haj.

The man who called the police after convincing those two cretins to let me get back on Florence and continue cycling was obviously a kind-hearted man who had a genuine concern for my safety.

There have also been some humorous incidents worth mentioning.Both Davey and I have crashed in a heap after forgetting to unclip from our pedals.Davey has had the misfortune of being witness to the development of some manky saddle sores on my bum.We have also grown used to dealing with each others bodily functions.

Due to the unstable political climate,it has been unwise to camp.As such,we have stayed in some laughable excuses for hotels.One of the more laughable was in Luxor,where we found out that our toilet did not flush…if only we had known this 5 minutes prior…

Monday morning,we make for Sudan.We have met a great bunch of guys here all on their way to Sudan and following similar routes to ours.It is with great excitement that all of us prepare for the 17 hour ferry ride.We have been instructed to be there at 8:30 am,for a (hopefully) 6pm departure!With thousands of Sudanese getting out of Libya via Egypt,the ferry promises endless micro adventures to entertain us.

After a rather harrowing Egyptian chapter,Davey and I are truly excited to be heading for Sudan.As we head closer to countries where we will find Habitat For Humanity,we are determined to start making some inroads with regard to getting a house built!We are also excited by the prospect of cycling without having to worry about the ‘Tourist Mafia’ or others who enjoy using harvesting tools as weapons.

I will also try to post more regular updates.We know how much you all crave the wisdom and profound insights we as “soul cyclists” have to offer!

Our umpteenth Koshari

Can’t be taking ourselves to seriously now,can we?

Peace and love …

Categories: Africa | 17 Comments

So how did it all come about?

The cycling hive that is Taiwan was the inspiration behind this adventure of a lifetime! Sunday the 17th of May 2009, I was loving the mountainous Jioufen with some good friends, Carla, Lucy, Alison, Grant, and Adrian. This was the scene for the birth of Through Africa for Africa! Appreciating the scenery and the small pizza Grant had ordered, we discussed a trip on 2 wheels through Africa! There was some tweaking to do, but the spark had ignited a fiery idea, which was tweaked and nurtured over the following weeks! Many hours were spent discussing and formulating the idea, but the real solutions arose at the most appropriate of times: while on the bicycle!


Thus the grand plan came together one Tuesday afternoon while cycling with Andrew my housemate! After tossing the idea around for a few weeks, the idea became a magnificent reality and was named Through Africa For Africa!

Being able to watch the idea unfold and develop left me in no doubt that this was to be not only an epic journey enthusiastically bandied around by friends, but also an epic journey that would indeed become a reality!

The adventure entails cycling the length of the African continent, from Egypt to South Africa. Along the way, we would like to stop in each country we pass through in the hope of making a positive difference to the lives of the people we meet.

The driving force is to become intimately acquainted with the wonderful people of Africa, while at the same time, humbly trying to make a positive, tangible difference to their everyday lives.

We desperately want to make our journey meaningful for us as well as for our fellow citizens of Africa! With this in mind, we have decided to try involving friends and families, so that you can share in the joy and beauty of our trip with us.

And so it begins…

Categories: Africa | Leave a comment

Thailand

A gentle introduction to the mayhem of South East Asia

Picture it: Hong Kong International Airport, luggage hanging from each shoulder, one hand pulling my wheeled bag and the other hand delicately wheeling a 30kg box containing a bicycle, trying with all my might not to bump into anyone in the sea of humanity all around me. My plane ticket for China is with all my other documents, and I am literally beside myself with excitement at the prospect of China. I stroll over to the travel agent, only to be bluntly told that my luggage and I will most certainly NOT be coming anywhere near the fabled peaks of China.

To say I was dumbfounded would be a gross understatement. I wondered around the airport aimlessly (with all my luggage) in a bit of a daze. It was at this point when I was reminded that no adventure worth its salt comes without the odd ‘hiccup’. A few minutes later I was booked on a flight to a country where us shady South Africans are permitted without visas: Thailand.

Now,as I look back over the two months that I was traveling, I see that little mishap as the universe’s way of ‘making the necessary adjustments’. Thailand turned out to be the perfect place to dip my feet into calmer water, before the frothy, churning oceans that lay ahead.

 

Thailand offered flat roads, tolerant drivers, 7-11 toasted sandwiches and tourist friendly accommodation almost everywhere I went. It also challenged me as I grew accustomed to sitting on a heavy bicycle for hours on end. My posterior was subjected to many hours in the saddle while being spared the jarring, demolished terrain which would become a painful reality in the near future. Thailand was also wet enough for me to make the necessary preparations for the endless slew of water from the heavens which would become my almost constant companion in Vietnam.

As I cycled further away from Bangkok, places to stop for food became less abundant. This helped me ready myself for the sparsely populated hills of Cambodia where anything more than rice was more of a luxury.The mild Thailand coffee offered me a snippet of the rocket fuel I would be enjoying later in the journey. Thailand also offered some spectacular scenery which was of course, uniquely Thailand, but also provided scrumptious tasters of what I could expect to cycle through in both Cambodia and Vietnam.

The sunset I shared with some new friends after a day on Kho Chang was so special and will remain with me for the rest of my days. Riding an elephant in the midday heat was a totally unexpected side trip which put a spring in my pedal. The friendly lady who gave me her water and something to eat after my longest day was a most welcome gift, and the smiling kid on the boat back to the mainland was just the face I needed early in the morning. The local man in almost the middle of nowhere, who took me for a tour around his small fishing village gave me the perfect send off as I crossed into Cambodia.

Thailand was a wonderful country to visit and it is definitely a country I feel that I have not yet seen enough of. Yes, it was indeed a gentle entry into South East Asia. It certainly did not feel like that at the time, but with the luxury of hindsight, and with the privilege of being able to compare Thailand to both Cambodia and Vietnam; the reality is that there were far tougher challenges lurking just around the corner. It was the challenges that I would encounter ahead and the people I would meet that would make the journey a most memorable one.

Thailand could not have provided better people or better preparation for those challenges. It is thus only fitting that I end end by thanking the universe for ‘making the necessary adjustments’.

View photo gallery of Thailand…

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