The last two weeks cycling have been memorable for so many reasons!
We left Dar Es Salaam, totally enchanted by the fact that we had made our first donation to Habitat For Humanity. We also departed with so many exciting prospects to look forward to. We were due to cycle through a national park, baobab forests, climb what we thought would be our last mountains, and then we would hit Malawi. Malawi was a country which had us frothing at the mouth as far back as Egypt. Cycling along Lake Malawi was too exciting for words. The idea of being in Southern Africa was even more reason to be excited, it represented a massive psychological and emotional fillip.
Africa; true to form, did not disappoint.
We reluctantly said our goodbyes to the friends we had made at Southern Sun in Dar Es Salaam. If there was any sadness however, it was tempered the following day when, in the afternoon session, we entered Mikumi National Park. The national road passes straight through the park. We were set to enjoy the best possible seats on a very special game drive. Both Davey and I were well aware of how privileged we were to be living this experience.
We would only feel more grateful when we came across our first herd of elephants, just 50 metres away! I was so excited,I stopped to get my camera out but forgot to unclip from my pedal. As I slowed to a stop, I toppled over with very little poise as the elephant looked on, totally unimpressed.
I managed to stop more gracefully from then on as we delighted in seeing countless elephant, baboon, giraffe, zebra,feeding vultures and more. It was a special day, one which will not be forgotten.
The following day’s highlights included cycling through fields and fields of baobab trees. Then, as the day came to a close, we found what was possibly our best camp site yet. That night,as we cooked dinner next to the river, admiring the southern hemisphere night sky, we chatted about the eventful 2 days we had just enjoyed.
The following day was just as exciting as we prepared for (what we thought was) our last significant climb. We were also due to take a rest day in the town of Iringa. After a tough day’s cycling, we arrived at a junction which directed us to turn right in order to get to Iringa, just 2 km away.As we turned on to this exit, we stared up in disbelief at a 2km climb slapping us into an exhausted stupor. We felt unprepared, as we did not have oxygen masks on hand for our summit attempt!
A rest day was spent at a coffee shop run by a wonderful English couple, Andy and Susie. They deserve a write up dedicated purely to the good work they are doing at Neema Craft Centre! Briefly, they run the cafe, which employs only deaf people in the cafe section! The workshop, where all the beautiful crafts are made, is also on site and employs only disabled people. Iringa has the highest percentage of people with physical disabilities in Tanzania. Neema is doing such wonderful work to empower these people by providing them with skills and allowing them to blossom and prove not only to their communities, but most importantly to themselves, that they are capable, talented human beings who have the ability to lead successful, fulfilled lives!
Africa continues to introduce us to the most spectacularly beautiful people.
From Iringa, it was another 3 days to Mbeya, the last town before the Malawi border. In the 6 cycling days it took us to get there, we covered some serious ground and encountered some gruelling conditions in terms of climbs and wind. From Iringa onwards however, our thoughts definitely turned to focus on Malawi and all it represented.
This presents a massive challenge psychologically. Davey and I have spent much time discussing our respective futures and how we plan to approach the next phases of our lives. Given all the time we have had for introspection, we have formulated detailed, intricate plans based on our goals and desires for the future. With each kilometre cycled, these dreams and goals appear a little larger on the horizon and seem that much more real. The reality is however, that we may as well be in Egypt, as we still have a long way to go(about 2500km) and a lot of hard work lies ahead. At the same time we must remember that a lot of unforgettable memories await over the next month.
Focus boys,FOCUS!!
The day we crossed the border into Malawi,we did 149km on a beautiful day’s cycling.We had a serious climb in the morning, which was probably the coldest weather we have experienced on the bikes. Personally this climb was tough; not so much the physical toll it took but rather the fact that here was another mountain, slowing our progress!The enticing prospect of home makes me impatient and this mountain,which kept us in the saddles for a long time, frustrated me. I almost began to take the mountains and wind(we have been experiencing for some time) personally, as if they were deliberately trying to keep me from getting back to South Africa. Obviously not the case,but perspective is difficult to maintain at such times.
We then cycled through lush, green tea fields before Lake Malawi came into view in the distance. A few rolling hills later, we enjoyed a long downhill to the border.We had done over a 100km before 2 in the afternoon, without lunch. After crossing into Malawi, we stopped for some lunch before heading to the town of Karonga. A border crossing always lifts the spirits, and we cycled along, waving to locals and greeting each and every person with big, excited grins on our faces.
The following day we cycled to the beautiful Chitimba Beach Camp, where we took a day off to enjoy what would prove to be our only day at the lake. After our rest day, we celebrated Davey’s birthday with a big, beautiful climb that provided us with elevated views of the lake. That evening, after a long day’s cycling, we camped just short of Mzuzu. We snuck off the side of the road as the sun disappeared and set up camp for the night! As we cooked our dinner on our little fire, we reflected on our day; it had been a tough, but good day.
The following day was a day which had both Davey and I in tears. We were hoping for some good cycling conditions as we had big mileage to cover before we could enjoy a rest in Lilongwe! We were however met by a howling head wind and countless steep climbs! This meant a tough slog uphill without the reward of being able to give the legs a break on the downhill.The strength of the wind had us cycling downhill!!
The frustration had us both in tears at different stages during the day.
As the sun began to set, we were on the lookout for the town of Mzimba. This town however, was proving elusive! Drinking water was also proving to be elusive, as it had been all day. With no supplies for camping, we cycled on into the night, with a small flashlight the only means of illuminating the road ahead. We arrived at a camp site at about 7:30 that night, after almost 12 hours on the bike. An exhausting day, to say the least.
We were now in the middle of a stretch of road which had us out on the bikes from almost sunrise to sunset for a few days in succession. The problem was that the conditions were not helping us achieve the mileage we would normally achieve on such long days. We did however, manage to get through about 130km each day until we arrived in Lilongwe. That Saturday, we stayed with an old varsity friend of mine, Skeg. It was great to see him. We also enjoyed the company of his mates as he was having a house warming party that night.
The next day, we were due to go and stay with some of Davey’s family. Jim Henderson came to fetch us and took us to his home! What a lovely house, and what a lovely host! It was such a treat to enjoy a Sunday braai on the patio, shoot the breeze and relax on the couch. We spent 3 fantastic nights there with Jim, Neil and Ashley. On the Tuesday Jim took us flying in his private airplane to Blantyre and back. Davey and I got to take the reins for some time!What a treat, yet again! That evening we went out for a delicious dinner for Neil’s birthday. The perfect end to a great day.
Jim and family were extremely generous and could not have been more welcoming while we were there.
We are again humbled by the people of Africa.
As I type this, it is approaching 12:30 am…It is late and in just a few hours we head for the Mozambique border.Mozambique is another major milestone and brings us within smelling distance of you beautifully pungent South Africans.
It is time to sleep, but it is important that you know how much we miss our friends and families. This trip is proving to be a beautiful adventure and we are confident it will continue to provide us with all kinds of beauty. Nothing however, could be more beautiful than seeing all our beautiful friends and families all over the world. So, while we are starting to feel the effects of having cycled in excess of 6000km, we remain focused on the task at hand, determined to soak up as much as Africa has to offer and get some houses built. Our hearts will also be beating that much harder as we approach the day we again get to see you an you and you and you…
Much love.










































